Unpacking The Narrative Clues Behind The Best Beauty Looks In ‘The Idol’

Jan 15, 2024

By Tish Weinstock

The Idol may be one of the most divisive shows to hit the small screen in recent years, but we can all agree on its masterful make-up looks. Indeed, not since Euphoria, that other Sam Levinson vehicle, has a show managed to incorporate the expressive possibilities of make-up so slickly as The Idol, which might have something to do with make-up artist Kirsten Coleman. Having previously worked under Doniella Davy on Euphoria, as well as having a host of other credits (including Babylon and Don’t Worry Darling) to her name, the California native is taking her craft to a whole new level as the controversial new show’s make-up department head. Cue: a mesmerising array of kaleidoscopic looks featuring everything from elongated crystal-encrusted wings to almost supernatural high-gloss skin.

“I wanted to convey a sense of emotion and realism with the beauty looks,” says Coleman. “Everyone’s make-up… reflects how they feel about themselves. There are subtle changes as some of these characters develop as time continues in the show,” she adds. “For example, when we first meet Jocelyn (played by Lily-Rose Depp), she has softer, warmer tones to her make-up. Her lines are diffused and her palette is more natural. After she starts working with Tedros (the cult leader played by The Weeknd), she addresses the darker side of her past, her traumas, and we see these emotional layers [start to] reveal themselves. Through her make-up, we see this as she starts playing with darker tones and more contrasting colours, darker lip liner, and more detail work around her eyes.”

It’s the same for the almost hyper real, lacquered skin, which Coleman created as counterpoint to our obsession with filters and perfection. “I want the viewers to feel like they are actually right there with these characters in person, at the nightclub, or the music video shoot, or the pool party,” she says.

As the first season wraps, Coleman selects her favourite looks from the show, and shares her top tips on how to recreate them.

By Hannah Coates

By Daniel Rodgers

By Alexandra Macon

“We first meet Jocelyn on the set of the cover shoot for her new album. She’s being portrayed as a mentally ill sexpot, complete with a hospital bracelet around her wrist, visible as she smokes a cigarette. The vibe of the make-up is that she’s been on a bender. The idea is that she hasn’t removed her make-up from the day before, and has just reapplied more on top.

“In the grander scheme of things, this is how the record label wants her to look, because it’s how they think they’re going to sell her music. They want her to come off as a wild, unhinged sexual deviant of a girl that’s attainable, which is something the record label executive even says in the episode.”

Eyeliner: Calligraphie De Chanel Longwear Gel LinerMascara: Chanel Le Volume Mascara in NoirCream blush: Chanel N°1 De Chanel Lip And Cheek Balm in Berry BoostLip Balm: Chanel Rouge Coco BaumeLip Liner: Chanel Le Crayon Lèvres in PivoineLashes: House of Lashes Le Petit Single and Ardell 3D Individual Knot Free Lashes

By Hannah Coates

By Daniel Rodgers

By Alexandra Macon

“The look of the music video is completely designed by Jocelyn’s team and the record label, with details that will sell. Everything is on trend, and is representative of who her team wants her to be – even if it’s not representative of how Jocelyn wants to be as an artist. All of the geometric hard points around her eyes represent the discomfort she’s experiencing, and even the sharpness of the world around her.

“With glitter, lashes, long pink hair extensions and fake nails, tight strappy heels and a costume she’s literally sewn into, on stage she is a doll everyone controls.”

Eyeliner: Calligraphie De Chanel Longwear Gel LinerGlitter: Lemonhead Space Jam in Caviar NoirLip liner: A combination of Charlotte Tilbury Pillow Talk Eyeliner (not the lip liner, which is a slightly different shade) and MAC Lip Pencil in StoneFoundation: Chanel Vitalumière Aqua in 30 and 40Concealer: Chanel Sublimage Le Correcteur Yeux in 30 and 40Powder: Chanel Les Beiges Healthy Sheer Glow Powder in No. 20Blush: Chanel Joues Contraste in Pink ExplosionLashes: House of Lashes Le Petit Triple

By Hannah Coates

By Daniel Rodgers

By Alexandra Macon

“The way I look at Chloe, played by actor Suzanna Son, is that she has an innocence to her that’s sort of charming, considering her past as an addict. Her make-up is very simple, clean and reflective of her youth and vibrance – hence the freckles and lip stain. She’s healthy now, focuses on her music and feels supported. In her new, simpler life, she just wants to write songs, sing and express herself. She’s happy now. She’s fully on board whether it’s a cult or not – she’s off the streets, and has come out of a hardship that most people don’t.”

Foundation: Cle Cosmetics CCC Cream in LightBlush: Cle Cosmetics Melting Lip Powder in Nude Blush and True RedHighlight: Cle Cosmetics Essence Moonlighter in Apricot TingeBrows: Elmer’s Glue Stick used with water and a lash wandConcealer: Kevyn Aucoin Etherealist Super Natural Concealer in Light EC 2Eyeliner: White EyelinerLip Stain: Tonymoly Delight Tint placed in the centre of lips and feathered out past the lip lineFreckles: Crayola Marker applied with a pointy brush to enhance and add more freckles

By Hannah Coates

By Daniel Rodgers

By Alexandra Macon

“Destiny [played by Da’Vine Joy Randolph] has worked long and hard to be respected in her career. She’s a singer herself and can spot natural talent. Being a Black woman in a cutthroat industry has made her need to over-prove herself to get to the heights she has reached. She spends a lot of time on her make-up, making herself look professional so she’s taken seriously, even though she knows what she’s doing. The sharp, clean lines and highly contrasted colour choices in her make-up also represent her badass nature.”

Foundation: La Girl Cosmetics Pro Conceal Orange Corrector, Esteé Lauder Double Wear Foundation in 52N Amber Honey and Tom Ford Beauty Traceless Foundation Stick in 12.5 WalnutConcealer: MAC Prolongwear Concealer in NC45Powder: MAC Mineralized Skin Finish Powder in Medium Tan and DarkBronzer: Mented Cosmetics Bronzer in Out of OfficeEyeshadow: A combination of Danessa Myricks Twin Flames Liquid Eyeshadow in True Luv and Chaos Makeup Pressed Eyeshadow in Rebel GirlEyeliner: Calligraphie De Chanel Longwear Gel LinerMascara: Essence Cosmetics Lash Princess MascaraLashes: House Of Lashes Stella Luxe Lashes and House Of Lashes Eyelash Adhesive in DarkBrows: Anastasia Beverly Hills Brow Wiz in Ebony and Got2B Glue 4 BrowsLip liner: Juvia’s Place Luxe Lipliner in KolaLipstick: Lime Crime Lip Blaze in Moss and FernSetting Mist: Morphe Continuous Setting Mist

“At this point in Jocelyn’s character arc, she’s finally figured out who she is as an artist and musician, and her make-up reflects the depth and layers of her true self. She has finally faced her past and traumas, and with that pain came great growth and internal reflection. Her make-up has more of a maturity to it, and there’s more depth and dimension. It’s about where she’s been, and where she’s going.”

Eyeliner: Calligraphie De Chanel Longwear Gel LinerMascara: Chanel Le Volume Mascara in NoirEye Shadow: Chanel Les 4 Ombres in Modern GlamourLip liner: Combination of MAC Lip Pencil in Stone and Pat McGrath Lip Liner in Ground WorkFoundation: Chanel CC Cream Concealer: Chanel Sublimage Le Correcteur Yeux in 30 and 40Powder: Chanel Les Beiges Healthy Sheer Glow Powder in No 20Bronzer: Le Beiges Chanel Healthy Glow Bronzing Cream in 392 and 395Blush: Chanel N°1 De Chanel Lip And Cheek Balm in Berry BoostLashes: House of Lashes Le Petit TripleLip Balm: Chanel Rouge Coco Baume